QUALITY STANDARDS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (DARTS )

 

 

QUALITY STANDARDS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (DARTS ) :

DARTS - A dart adds three-dimensional shape to a single section of cut fabric. Darts are used most frequently at locations of major body contours--bust, shoulders, waist/hips, elbows, for example--and in apparel that is fitted to the body.

1. Stitch length is appropriate to the fabric and to the expected stress at the stitched location.
2. The thread matches the apparel fabric.
3. No creases or pressing impressions are present on the face side of the garment.
4. No dimples or bubbles can be seen at the dart point.
5. Matching darts appear identical in size and angle.
6. The stitching line is smooth without puckers or folds.
7. Both ends of the dart are sufficiently secured.
8. Darts on heavy or bulky fabrics are slashed, trimmed or balanced, if needed, and pressed open.

DART EQUIVALENTS - Gathers, pleats and tucks may be used as dart equivalents or as decorative details. They are created during the actual construction of the garment, as opposed to being applied to a completed garment or garment section.

1. Gathers are uniform and evenly distributed and stitched so as not to form pleats. Gathers are pressed flat only in the seam allowance. All visible basting threads are removed.
2. Tucks and pleats are composed of straight, even folds of fabric, uniform in width unless the design requires variation.

3. The desired grain line is maintained.
4. The stitching at the end of the pleat is secure.
5. Tucks and pleats are flat and pressed in one direction or as designed, except released tucks and un-pressed pleats.
6. Tucks and pleats are free of pressed-in ridges from hidden edges and marks from basting and pins.
7. Tucks and pleats hang straight and even with adequate fullness.