QUALITY STANDARDS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (UNDERLININGS ) :
UNDERLININGS - An underlining is an appropriate fabric cut to duplicate a garment section, applied to the wrong side of the fashion fabric and handled as one during the construction of the garment. The primary purpose of underlining is to give additional strength, support, and durability to the outer fabric. It may be used to change the draping quality of the garment fabric, or to lend opacity to sheer or lightweight fabrics, or to prevent wrinkling. Loosely woven outer fabrics may be underlined to prevent stretching or sagging.
1. The fashion fabric and the underlining fabric relate well—the garment is neither over-supported nor under-supported for the desired design effect.
2. The fashion fabric and the underlining fabric are compatible as to color, care requirements, stretch, quality, and use.
3. When on the figure, the two layers of fabric fit smoothly and evenly, with no pulls or puckers.
4. The underlining is on the same grain as the garment fabric unless the design or the fabrics warrant bias.
INTERFACINGS - An interfacing is a special type of fabric applied directly to the facing or to the fashion fabric of a garment to give it body and shape.
1. The interfacing complements and reinforces the fashion fabric without overpowering it.
2. Care requirements of the interfacing are compatible with those of the garment fabric.
3. Interfacings have been properly preshrunk.
4. Interfaced seams and darts are treated to reduce bulk.
5. The interfacing does not show through to the right side of the garment.
6. Woven and knit interfacings are on the same grain as the garment areas to be interfaced, unless design or fabric warrant bias.
7. Interfacing is used in any areas requiring shape, body, support, and reinforcement, and where seam impressions may be a problem.
8. Fusible interfacings have been applied with the correct temperature and pressure in order to evenly and permanently bond them to the fashion fabric.
9. Interfacing is caught into the seams or hand tacked to prevent detaching.
INTERLININGS - An interlining is an underlying fabric placed between the outer fabric and the lining of the garment in order to enhance the warmth of the garment.
1. Interlinings are of lightweight or open weave fabrics with insulating properties.
2. Interlinings do not add excessive bulk to the garment.
3. The interlining's care requirements match those of the rest of the garment.
4. The interlined garment has adequate wearing ease to accommodate the added thickness.
5. Color is compatible and does not show through.
6. Woven and knit interlinings are on the same grain as the garment areas to be interlined, unless design or fabric warrant bias.
LININGS - A lining is a unit assembled in the same or similar silhouette as the garment or portion of the garment. It is applied to the inside of the garment to finish it and to hide the inner construction of the garment. The lining gives the garment a comfortable, luxurious feeling and lends ease in slipping the garment on and off. A lining protects the inner construction of the garment and prevents stretching.
1. The lining is on the same grain as the fashion fabric.
2. The lining fits smoothly inside the garment.
3. The lining provides a neat, clean inside finish.
4. The lining is constructed from a smooth, static-free fabric that complements the fashion fabric.
5. There is sufficient ease in the lining for body movement without straining the fashion fabric.
6. A partial lining used to maintain the shape of a garment extends far enough to accomplish this purpose.
7. On garments lined to the edge, the lining is not seen from the face side.
8. A free-hanging lining is linked to garment seams at the hemline where appropriate.
9. The edge finish is appropriate.
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