Different Types and Classification of Stitches

 

The Stitch Classes

The six classes of stitches as given in Federal Standard 751a are:
  • Class 100 chain stitches.
  • Class 200 stitches originating as hand stitches.
    The Stitch Classes The six classes of stitches as given in Federal Standard 751a are: Class 100 chain stitches. Class 200 stitches originating as hand stitches. Class 300 lock stitches. Class 400 multi thread chain stitches. Class 500 over edge stitches, and Class 600 covering chain stitches Class 100 Chain Stitches The Chain Stitch class 100 includes stitch types 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105. It is formed with one or more needle threads that form a loop on the underside of the fabric. It has no lower thread. Stitch Class 101 Type 101 is one of the simplest of all stitch types, formed from a single thread. It can be easily removed, and it is used for basting operations in tailored menswear and women’s wear. It can only be used where the marks of needle penetration close up afterwards in pressing. A basting operation is a temporary stitch, allowing accurate placement of permanent stitches. It is used in positions such as edges, flaps and collars. The Blind Stitch Version, 103 The Blind Stitch Version, 103, utilises a curved needle in order to, successively penetrate partially into the fabric, and then into the hem edge, while showing minimally or not at all on the right side of the garment. Class 200 Stitches Class 200 Stitches consists of hand formation of stitches done by hand with the exception of 205, which simulates a hand running stitch, but is formed by a special machine. Typical types of Class 200 stitches are basting stitches and back stitches. Class 300 Lock Stitches The Lock Stitch Class 300 is the most commonly used and is easiest to understand. A Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, a needle thread that feeds from the top and a lower thread that feeds from a bobbin. A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle thread loop as it passes around the bobbin and interlocks the two threads. If a lock stitch thread breaks, the two threads used to form the stitch lock and the whole line of stitches won’t unravel. Lock stitch machines are versatile and can be used for a variety of operations. It is also the only stitch formation that can be backstitched. A lock stitch machine is a good choice for a small manufacturer that produces fashion goods. A complete garment can be sewn on a lock stitch machine. Also, if versatility is needed, a lock stitch is a good choice but if speed and efficiency are the priorities, it may not be the right selection. Lock stitch machines are slower than other classes of industrial machines. Operating speeds of these machines range from 3000 to 5000 revolutions per minute, while other machines can operate at 9000 rpm or more. On short seams, an operator would not be able to reach maximum speed; therefore, it is recommended to be used on small parts, while faster stitch types should be used for larger parts and longer seams. Some of the most common type of stitches in this class are: Stitch Type 301 and Stitch Type 304. Stitch Type 301 The 301 is referred to as a plain stitch or a straight stitch. It is the stitch type performed by the standard home sewing machine. Equal amount of needle and bobbin threads are used, and upper and lower threads interlocks in the center of the fabric. The 301 stitch uses the least amount of thread and produces the flattest stitch. It is the tightest and most secured stitch among all stitch types. Because, this stitch formation is the same on both sides of the seams, it is reversible and used extensively for top stitching, especially along collars, cuff edges, and fronts of jackets. It is a poor choice in areas that need to stretch as it has least amount of elongation potential. The 301 is inappropriate to attach elastic, or sew knit or bias seams that are expected to stretch. Stitch Type 304 Type 304 is the traditional zigzag stitch that is used to sew appliques, attach lace on lingerie, and produce faggotting. Other types of zigzag lock stitches are class 308 and 315, which form a longer and a wider zigzag by using several stitches before changing direction. Faggotting is a decoration stitch used to connect two pieces of fabric, but allowing space between the pieces. It provides elongation, is smooth and will not ravel out. Class 400 Multi-Thread Chain Stitches The 400 class is the second most frequently used stitch type. This multi thread chain stitch requires one or more needle threads that form loops as they pass through the fabric and interloop with the looper thread on the underside. All of this feeds continuously from the cones. The 400 class stitch requires an upper and a lower thread and uses a looper to carry the lower thread and form a thread loop on the underside of the fabric. Machines producing 400 class stitch, do not back tack, although, stitches can be condensed to secure the ends of the threads. Types of Class 400 Chain Stitches The most common stitch types in this class Stitch are: The 401 or two thread chain stitch. Stitch type 402 or cording stitch. Stitch type 404. Stitch type 406 & 407. The 401 or Two Thread Chain Stitch It is also called double locked chain stitch. Its appearance is the same as the 101 stitch with a flat straight thread formation similar to a lock stitch on the face of the fabric and a loop on the underside. The 401 stitch can be unraveled, but only if the looper thread is pulled in the direction the stitches were formed. The 401 stitch machines are capable of operating at very high speeds. These chain stitch machines often use multiple needles to produce parallel rows of stitching. The loop formation of the chain stitch elongates when extended; thus it is used for seams that require elasticity, such as setting sleeves and attaching elastic. This stitch type is also well suited to automated sewing equipment, such as automatic seamers. Stitch Type 402 or Cording Stitch Stitch Type 402 or Cording Stitch is used primarily for stitching permanent creases. It uses two needle threads that produce two parallel rows of stitching on the face of the fabric. A looper thread travels between the two needle threads on the back of the fabric creating a ridge or crease between the needle threads on the face. This type of stitching can be found on sportswear where a crease needs to be maintained or on the back of gloves. Stitch Type 404 Stitch Type 404 stitch is similar in appearance to a 304 stitch, in the sense, that it is also a zigzag stitch, except the difference that it is formed as a chain stitch and contains loops on one side. Stitch Type 406 Stitch Type 406 are known as bottom cover stitches. They are used to cover seam or unfinished edges on the inside of garments and to keep them flat. They appear as 2 or 3 rows of parallel “lock stitching” on the face of the fabric while a looper thread connects the rows on the back. The 406 stitch uses 2 needle threads and 1 looper thread like a 402 except that it does not ridge up. Stitch type 406 is used to produce flat, comfortable seams on necklines of t-shirts bottom felling of t-shirts, or on binding of men’s briefs. Stitch Type 407 Stitch type 407 is very much similar to 406 stitch except that it uses three needle threads and has even more stretch. The primary use of 407 stitch is to attach elastic to undergarments, which require maximum stretch. Class 500 over Edge Stitches The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads. These are characterized by loops from at least one group of threads passing around the edge of the material. The loops form a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric, with threads intersecting at the edge. This prevents the fabric from fraying. These stitches have high elasticity, do not unravel easily, and a trimming knife on the machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing. They are often called overedge, overcast, overlock, serge or merrow. Overedge machines, must have three stitch forming devices, a needle to carry the thread through the fabric, a looper or spreader to carry the thread from the needle to the edge of material on the bottom, and a looper or spreader to carry thread up and over the edge of the material on the top. The various stitch types use various combinations of these three devices. The odd numbered stitch types 501, 503, 505 and 521 are known as “break open” stitches, because they act similar to the spiral back of a notebook. The fabric is held tight together, but not secure along the inner edge of the stitching. This allows the stitch to break open. These stitches are best used for edge finishes and hem. These stitches are characterized by a loose thread on the bottom, that is pulled to the edge of the fabric, where it interloops the looper thread. This creates a purl stitch or interlooping of thread that wraps and protects the edge of the fabric. The even numbered stitch types in this class – 502, 504, 512 and 514 – have a much tighter needle thread that holds the two layers of fabric together at the actual seam line. These stitches do not “grin through” or become exposed between the layers of fabric. These stitches also have a much smoother appearance and are more durable. Serging Serging is the process of finishing a single ply of fabric to prevent ravelling. This is often one of the first processes in sewing a garment, if another edge finish is not to be given later in production. Edge Stitches Types 503, 504 and 505 stitch are overedge stitch types that are used for serging. Type 502 Stitch type 202 are formed by two threads, a needle and looper thread. It is a tight stitch that is used primarily for seaming the outer edge of bags. Type 503 Type 503 is also formed by two threads, a needle and looper thread. It is used for blind hemming and serging. It is used mainly for hems in T-shirts and other kit garments and serging seams of dress slacks, because the two-thread construction is less likely to press through the garment. Type 504 & 505 Stitch type 504 and 505 are three thread overedge stitches that are formed with one needle thread and two looper threads. They require more thread in the formation, but they also have more stretch. Type 504 is a highly extensible, but secure stitch that makes an excellent seam for knit garments, such as seams of cut and sewn sweaters. It is the most common of 500 class. Mock Safety Stitches Stitch types 512 and 514 are sometimes called mock safety stitches. They are four thread overedge stitches that are formed with two needle threads and two looper threads. Type 514 stitch is stronger and more elastic than 512 stitch, but both may be used for seaming knits and wovens. However, 514 stitch makes a wider seam and may be desirable for some knit garments. Stitch types 515, 516, and 519 are a combination of an overedge stitch and a 401 chain stitch. These types are called safety stitches, because the chain stitch that closes the seam is backed by another row of tight overedge stitches. Both rows of stitches are formed at the same time. This type of seaming is widely used by manufacturers of shirts, jackets, blouses and jeans. Class 600 Covering Chain Stitches The cover stitch or 600 class stitch, often called a flat lock or a flat seam stitch, is an advanced version of the 400 class stitch and is used primarily on knits and lingerie. These stitches, referred to as top and bottom cover stitches, are commonly used to cover both sides of the seam with thread. Threads must be chained off and be crossed by another seam. This stitch class uses a lot of thread, but provides excellent top and bottom cover and flat seams. Stitches in this class are most complex of all and may have up to nine threads in total including four needle threads. Machines producing the 600 class stitch are extremely fast and efficient, operating at 9000 rpms. The stitch is formed by two or more needle loops passing through the material, interlooping on the underside and interlocking on the upper side. A spreader or cover thread finger carries the cover thread across the surface of the fabric between the needles. Stitch Types 602, 605 And 607 Type 602 Cover stitch 602 is a very strong and elastic stitch used extensively by manufacturers of knit garments to cover raw edges and prevent raveling. Class 602 is a 4-thread stitch with 2 needle threads, 1 looper thread, and 1 top covering thread. Type 605 Cover stitch 605 is also a very strong and elastic stitch used extensively by manufacturers of knit garments to cover raw edges and prevent raveling. Class 605 is similar to the 602 stitch but with 3 needle threads, 1 looper thread, and 1 top covering thread. Type 607 The flat seaming stitch, 607, trims and seams simultaneously. It is a 9-thread stitch with 4 needle threads, 4 looper threads, and 1 top covering thread.
  • Class 300 lock stitches.
  • Class 400 multi thread chain stitches.
  • Class 500 over edge stitches, and
  • Class 600 covering chain stitches

Class 100 Chain Stitches

The Chain Stitch class 100 includes stitch types 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105. It is formed with one or more needle threads that form a loop on the underside of the fabric. It has no lower thread.

Stitch Class 101

Type 101 is one of the simplest of all stitch types, formed from a single thread. It can be easily removed, and it is used for basting operations in tailored menswear and women’s wear.
It can only be used where the marks of needle penetration close up afterwards in pressing. A basting operation is a temporary stitch, allowing accurate placement of permanent stitches. It is used in positions such as edges, flaps and collars.
The Blind Stitch Version, 103
The Blind Stitch Version, 103, utilises a curved needle in order to, successively penetrate partially into the fabric, and then into the hem edge, while showing minimally or not at all on the right side of the garment.

Class 200 Stitches

Class 200 Stitches consists of hand formation of stitches done by hand with the exception of 205, which simulates a hand running stitch, but is formed by a special machine. Typical types of Class 200 stitches are basting stitches and back stitches.

Class 300 Lock Stitches

The Lock Stitch Class 300 is the most commonly used and is easiest to understand. A Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, a needle thread that feeds from the top and a lower thread that feeds from a bobbin. A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle thread loop as it passes around the bobbin and interlocks the two threads. If a lock stitch thread breaks, the two threads used to form the stitch lock and the whole line of stitches won’t unravel. Lock stitch machines are versatile and can be used for a variety of operations. It is also the only stitch formation that can be backstitched.
A lock stitch machine is a good choice for a small manufacturer that produces fashion goods. A complete garment can be sewn on a lock stitch machine. Also, if versatility is needed, a lock stitch is a good choice but if speed and efficiency are the priorities, it may not be the right selection. Lock stitch machines are slower than other classes of industrial machines. Operating speeds of these machines range from 3000 to 5000 revolutions per minute, while other machines can operate at 9000 rpm or more. On short seams, an operator would not be able to reach maximum speed; therefore, it is recommended to be used on small parts, while faster stitch types should be used for larger parts and longer seams. Some of the most common type of stitches in this class are: Stitch Type 301 and Stitch Type 304.

Stitch Type 301

The 301 is referred to as a plain stitch or a straight stitch. It is the stitch type performed by the standard home sewing machine. Equal amount of needle and bobbin threads are used, and upper and lower threads interlocks in the center of the fabric. The 301 stitch uses the least amount of thread and produces the flattest stitch.
It is the tightest and most secured stitch among all stitch types. Because, this stitch formation is the same on both sides of the seams, it is reversible and used extensively for top stitching, especially along collars, cuff edges, and fronts of jackets. It is a poor choice in areas that need to stretch as it has least amount of elongation potential. The 301 is inappropriate to attach elastic, or sew knit or bias seams that are expected to stretch.

Stitch Type 304

Type 304 is the traditional zigzag stitch that is used to sew appliques, attach lace on lingerie, and produce faggotting. Other types of zigzag lock stitches are class 308 and 315, which form a longer and a wider zigzag by using several stitches before changing direction. Faggotting is a decoration stitch used to connect two pieces of fabric, but allowing space between the pieces. It provides elongation, is smooth and will not ravel out.

Class 400 Multi-Thread Chain Stitches

The 400 class is the second most frequently used stitch type. This multi thread chain stitch requires one or more needle threads that form loops as they pass through the fabric and interloop with the looper thread on the underside. All of this feeds continuously from the cones. The 400 class stitch requires an upper and a lower thread and uses a looper to carry the lower thread and form a thread loop on the underside of the fabric. Machines producing 400 class stitch, do not back tack, although, stitches can be condensed to secure the ends of the threads.

Types of Class 400 Chain Stitches

The most common stitch types in this class Stitch are:
The 401 or two thread chain stitch.
Stitch type 402 or cording stitch.
Stitch type 404.
Stitch type 406 & 407.

The 401 or Two Thread Chain Stitch

It is also called double locked chain stitch. Its appearance is the same as the 101 stitch with a flat straight thread formation similar to a lock stitch on the face of the fabric and a loop on the underside. The 401 stitch can be unraveled, but only if the looper thread is pulled in the direction the stitches were formed. The 401 stitch machines are capable of operating at very high speeds. These chain stitch machines often use multiple needles to produce parallel rows of stitching.
The loop formation of the chain stitch elongates when extended; thus it is used for seams that require elasticity, such as setting sleeves and attaching elastic. This stitch type is also well suited to automated sewing equipment, such as automatic seamers.

Stitch Type 402 or Cording Stitch

Stitch Type 402 or Cording Stitch is used primarily for stitching permanent creases. It uses two needle threads that produce two parallel rows of stitching on the face of the fabric. A looper thread travels between the two needle threads on the back of the fabric creating a ridge or crease between the needle threads on the face. This type of stitching can be found on sportswear where a crease needs to be maintained or on the back of gloves.

Stitch Type 404

Stitch Type 404 stitch is similar in appearance to a 304 stitch, in the sense, that it is also a zigzag stitch, except the difference that it is formed as a chain stitch and contains loops on one side.

Stitch Type 406

Stitch Type 406 are known as bottom cover stitches. They are used to cover seam or unfinished edges on the inside of garments and to keep them flat. They appear as 2 or 3 rows of parallel “lock stitching” on the face of the fabric while a looper thread connects the rows on the back. The 406 stitch uses 2 needle threads and 1 looper thread like a 402 except that it does not ridge up. Stitch type 406 is used to produce flat, comfortable seams on necklines of t-shirts bottom felling of t-shirts, or on binding of men’s briefs.

Stitch Type 407

Stitch type 407 is very much similar to 406 stitch except that it uses three needle threads and has even more stretch. The primary use of 407 stitch is to attach elastic to undergarments, which require maximum stretch.

Class 500 over Edge Stitches

The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads. These are characterized by loops from at least one group of threads passing around the edge of the material. The loops form a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric, with threads intersecting at the edge. This prevents the fabric from fraying. These stitches have high elasticity, do not unravel easily, and a trimming knife on the machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing. They are often called overedge, overcast, overlock, serge or merrow. Overedge machines, must have three stitch forming devices, a needle to carry the thread through the fabric, a looper or spreader to carry the thread from the needle to the edge of material on the bottom, and a looper or spreader to carry thread up and over the edge of the material on the top. The various stitch types use various combinations of these three devices.
The odd numbered stitch types 501, 503, 505 and 521 are known as “break open” stitches, because they act similar to the spiral back of a notebook.
The fabric is held tight together, but not secure along the inner edge of the stitching. This allows the stitch to break open. These stitches are best used for edge finishes and hem. These stitches are characterized by a loose thread on the bottom, that is pulled to the edge of the fabric, where it interloops the looper thread. This creates a purl stitch or interlooping of thread that wraps and protects the edge of the fabric. The even numbered stitch types in this class – 502, 504, 512 and 514 – have a much tighter needle thread that holds the two layers of fabric together at the actual seam line. These stitches do not “grin through” or become exposed between the layers of fabric. These stitches also have a much smoother appearance and are more durable.

Serging
Serging is the process of finishing a single ply of fabric to prevent ravelling. This is often one of the first processes in sewing a garment, if another edge finish is not to be given later in production.

Edge Stitches
Types 503, 504 and 505 stitch are overedge stitch types that are used for serging.

Type 502
Stitch type 202 are formed by two threads, a needle and looper thread. It is a tight stitch that is used primarily for seaming the outer edge of bags.

Type 503
Type 503 is also formed by two threads, a needle and looper thread. It is used for blind hemming and serging. It is used mainly for hems in T-shirts and other kit garments and serging seams of dress slacks, because the two-thread construction is less likely to press through the garment.

Type 504 & 505
Stitch type 504 and 505 are three thread overedge stitches that are formed with one needle thread and two looper threads. They require more thread in the formation, but they also have more stretch. Type 504 is a highly extensible, but secure stitch that makes an excellent seam for knit garments, such as seams of cut and sewn sweaters. It is the most common of 500 class.

Mock Safety Stitches
Stitch types 512 and 514 are sometimes called mock safety stitches. They are four thread overedge stitches that are formed with two needle threads and two looper threads. Type 514 stitch is stronger and more elastic than 512 stitch, but both may be used for seaming knits and wovens. However, 514 stitch makes a wider seam and may be desirable for some knit garments. Stitch types 515, 516, and 519 are a combination of an overedge stitch and a 401 chain stitch.
These types are called safety stitches, because the chain stitch that closes the seam is backed by another row of tight overedge stitches. Both rows of stitches are formed at the same time. This type of seaming is widely used by manufacturers of shirts, jackets, blouses and jeans.

Class 600 Covering Chain Stitches

The cover stitch or 600 class stitch, often called a flat lock or a flat seam stitch, is an advanced version of the 400 class stitch and is used primarily on knits and lingerie. These stitches, referred to as top and bottom cover stitches, are commonly used to cover both sides of the seam with thread.
Threads must be chained off and be crossed by another seam. This stitch class uses a lot of thread, but provides excellent top and bottom cover and flat seams.
Stitches in this class are most complex of all and may have up to nine threads in total including four needle threads. Machines producing the 600 class stitch are extremely fast and efficient, operating at 9000 rpms.
The stitch is formed by two or more needle loops passing through the material, interlooping on the underside and interlocking on the upper side. A spreader or cover thread finger carries the cover thread across the surface of the fabric between the needles.

Stitch Types 602, 605 And 607

Type 602
Cover stitch 602 is a very strong and elastic stitch used extensively by manufacturers of knit garments to cover raw edges and prevent raveling.

Class 602 is a 4-thread stitch with 2 needle threads, 1 looper thread, and 1 top covering thread.

Type 605
Cover stitch 605 is also a very strong and elastic stitch used extensively by manufacturers of knit garments to cover raw edges and prevent raveling.
Class 605 is similar to the 602 stitch but with 3 needle threads, 1 looper thread, and 1 top covering thread.

Type 607
The flat seaming stitch, 607, trims and seams simultaneously. It is a 9-thread stitch with 4 needle threads, 4 looper threads, and 1 top covering thread.



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