Basic Weft knitted Fabric structures and Their End Uses

Basic Weft knitted structures:

         1. Plain / Single knit structure.
         2. Rib structure.
         3. Purl knit structure.
         4. Interlock structure.

1. Plain knit structure:

Features of plain knit structures:

Plain knit structure is the simplest and most basic structure. It's also called single knit structure.
It's produced by the needles of one set of needle with all the loops intermeshed in the same
direction. We can identify the plain knit structure fabrics as following properties

1. The fabric is unbalanced and different appearance on face and back side. V shapes on
face and Arcs on back.
2. Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate (10-20%). and widthwise extensibility
is high (30-50%).
3. The fabric extensibility area is moderate to high.
4. The fabric is thicker and warmer than plain woven made from same yarn.
5. The plain knit structure can be easily unraveled from the edge which was knitted last.
Unroving either end.
6. The fabric has tendency to curl.

End Uses:

Plain knit structures are used for basic T-shirt (men's and ladies), under garments, men's vest,
ladies hosiery, fully fashioned knit wear etc.

2.Rib structures:

Features of rib structure:

Rib is the second family of knit structures. It's also called double - knit. It's requires two sets of
needles operating in between each other so that wales of face stitches and wales of back stitches
are knitted on each side of the fabric . We can identify the Rib structure fabrics as following
properties

1. Same appearance in both sides of rib fabric. Like face of plain.
2. Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate and widthwise extensibility is very
high (50-100%).
3. The fabric extensibility area is high.
4. The fabric is much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Rib structures can be unraveled from the edge knitted last. Unroving only form end
knitted last.
6. No tendency to curl.

1x1 Rib is production of by two sets of needles being alternately set or gate between each other.
Relaxed 1x1 rib is theoretically twice the thickness and half the width of an equivalent plain
fabric, but it haves twice as much width-wise recoverable stretch. In practice, 1x1 rib normally
relaxes by approximately 30% compared with it's knitting width.

End Uses:

Rib structures are uses for--Socks, cuffs, waistbands, collars, men's outerwear, knitwear, under
wear etc.

3. Purl knit structures:

Purl knit structures is the third family of knit structures. As with rib structures, it's requires the
participation of both needle beds for the production of the loops.

Features of Purl structure:

1. Same appearance on both sides. Like back of plain.
2. Lengthwise extensibility is very high and widthwise extensibility is high.
3. The fabric extensibility area is very high.
4. Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Unroving either end.
6. No tendency to curl.

End Uses:

Purl structures are uses for---Children's clothing, knitwear, thick and heavy outerwear etc.

4. Interlock structures:

Interlock is another 1x1 rib variant structure which is produced on specially designed machines.
Those machines possess two sets of needles (short and long needles) in both cylinder and dial
and at least two feeders.

Features of Interlock Structure:

1. Same appearance on both sides, like face of plain.
2. Lengthwise extensibility is moderate and widthwise extensibility is moderate.
3. Extensibility area is moderate.
4. Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Unroving only from end knitted last.
6. No tendency to curl.

Interlock relaxes by about 30–40 per cent or more, compared with its knitted width, so that a 30-
inch (76 cm) diameter machine will produce a tube of 94-inch (2.4 m) open width which finishes
at 60–66 inches (1.5–1.7 m) wide. It is a balanced, smooth, stable structure that lies flat without
curl. Like 1x1 rib, it will not unrove from the end knitted first, but it is thicker, heavier and
narrower than rib of equivalent gauge, and requires a finer, better, more expensive yarn.

End Uses:

Interlock structures are use for-- Underwear, shirts, suits, trouser suits, sportswear, dresses etc.

Read Also -

Types of Knitting Machines