QUALITY STANDARDS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (POCKETS )

QUALITY STANDARDS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (POCKETS ) :

POCKETS

Inseam Pockets - Inseam pockets occur at a structural seam on the garment, most commonly at a side seam of skirts and slacks, but may be placed in other seams as well.

1. Functional pockets are positioned at a location convenient for use.

2. Openings on functional pockets are large enough for the intended use.

3. The pocket depth is correct for the location. Pocket sacks do not extend past the hem or facing of the garment.

4. Openings that are angular or on the bias have been reinforced to prevent stretching.

5. Pocket openings are reinforced at the beginning and end.

6. Seams lie flat without pulling or puckering, and the raw edges have been finished as the garment's quality, fabric and location demand.

7. Lining fabric, if used for the pocket bag, is durable, appropriate, and has the same care requirements as the garment's fabric.

8. The body of the pocket is anchored when possible to maintain its position and to prevent sagging.

9. The edges of the pocket opening appear the same size, with no puckering or pulling on either side.

10.The pocket lining is recessed enough so it does not show during movement and while sitting.

11.The pocket is cut on appropriate grain, generally duplicating the garment's grain line.

Applied Pockets - Applied pockets, often referred to as patch pockets, and are usually made from the fashion fabric cut in any desired shape or size.

1. Functional applied pockets are positioned at a location convenient for use.

2. Openings on functional pockets are large enough for the intended use.
3. The pocket depth is correct for the location and is in proportion to the design.
4. Interfacing is used when needed to hold the pocket shape.
5. Pockets are cut on the appropriate grain, and any fabric designs are matched. If a bias cut is used, pockets are not stretched and are properly stabilized and paired.
6. Comers match, with no raw edges or lining fabric visible.
7. Enclosed seams are trimmed, usually to one-fourth inch (.64 cm) or less.
8. Curves, if present, are smooth and the sides are symmetrical unless otherwise designed.
9. Pockets and/or flaps lie flat without pulling, twisting, sagging, or rolling.
10.Paired pockets appear the same height, the same size, the same shape, and at the same location on the garment.
11.Linings do not roll to the right side at the edges of the pocket, but remain out of sight.
12.If used, topstitching is an equal distance from the edge at all points unless otherwise designed. An appropriate stitch length has been used, and all loose thread ends have been secured and hidden.
13.Trims or decorations are neatly applied and appropriate for the design and location.
14.Pocket corners are reinforced properly according to type, location, method of application, fabric, and use.
15.Facings or hems are deep enough to stay in position; raw edges are appropriately finished for the fabric and location; under stitching is present when needed, and seams are appropriately trimmed.

Slashed Pockets - Slashed pockets, or welt pockets as they are sometimes called, have one or two strips of fashion fabric applied to the right side of the garment to conceal the raw edges of the pocket opening. Flaps may accompany the welts, and a lining must be applied and turned to the wrong side to complete the body or bag of the pocket and to conceal the small welt seams.

1. Functional pockets are positioned at a location convenient for their use.
2. Openings on functional pockets are large enough for the intended use.

3. The pocket depth is appropriate for the location. Linings do not extend below the hem fold in jackets.
4. Openings, flaps, and welts are interfaced when necessary for body and shape retention.
5. Pockets are cut on the appropriate grain with the fabric design matched, if applicable. Bias welts and flaps are properly stabilized and not stretched during their application.
6. Enclosed seams are trimmed, usually to one-fourth inch (.64 cm.) or less.
7. There are no holes, pleats, or puckers at the ends of the slashed openings. The ends are angled identically on both sides of garment as indicated by the design.
8. Flaps, when present, are of sufficient length to cover the welts and lie flat.
9. The pocket facing is fashion fabric applied to the pocket lining, directly beneath the pocket opening, when buttonhole or narrow single welts are used, to prevent the lining from showing when the pocket is being used.
10.Fabric triangles formed at the ends of the slashed openings are secured with several rows of small stitches or with bartacks.
11.Lining fabrics are appropriate for the location and for the fashion fabric weight, care requirements, and use.
12.Raw edges of the lining are appropriately finished as required for the pocket location.
13.Paired pockets appear identical in length, width at openings, and the distance from the garment edge.
14.Pockets lie flat without pulling, twisting, or rolling.