Knitted Fabric Faults and Their Remedies:
Drop Stitches (Holes):
Drop
Stitches are randomly appearing small or big holes of the, same or different
size, which appear as defects, in the Knitted fabrics.Fig 1 : Drop Stitches(Holes)
Causes:
- High
Yarn Tension
- Yarn
Overfeed or Underfeed
- High
Fabric Take Down Tension
- Obstructions
in the yarn passage, due to the clogging of eyelets, yarn guides & tension
discs, with wax & fluff etc.
- Defects
like; Slubs, Naps, Knots etc.
- Incorrect gap between the Dial & Cylinder rings.
Remedies:
Ensure
uniform yarn tension on all the feeders, with a Tension Meter.
Rate
of yarn feed should be strictly regulated, as per the required Stitch Length.
- The fabric tube should be just like a
fully inflated balloon, not too tight or too slack.
- Eyelets & the Yarn Guides, should
not have, any fibers, fluff & wax etc. stuck in them.
- The yarn being used, should have no
imperfections, like; Slubs, Neps & big knots etc
- The gap between the Cylinder & the Dial should, be correctly adjusted, as per the knitted loop size.
Barriness:
Causes:
- High
Yarn Tension
- Count
Variation
- Mixing
of the yarn lots
- Package hardness variation
Remedies:
- Ensure
uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders.
- The average Count variation in the lot, should not be more than +- 0.3
- Ensure
that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the same Lot / Merge no.
- Ensure that the hardness of, all the yarn packages, is uniform, using a hardness tester.
Streakiness:
Causes:
- Yarn
slippage on the IRO Pulley, due to the yarn slipping in & out from
underneath the IRO Belt, due to a tilted IRO Pulley.
- Worn
out IRO belts, yarn guides & eyelets etc
- Faulty
winding of the yarn packages
- Yarn running out of the belt, on the IRO Pulley.
Remedies:
- Ensure
very smooth, clean & obstruction free passage of the yarn, through the
eyelets, yarn & tension discs etc.
- No
cuts or rough surfaces, in the Porcelain Eyelets, Yarn Guides & the Yarn
Feeder holes etc.
- Flawless winding of the, Yarn Package (The yarn coils should unwind smoothly, without any obstruction)
- The yarn should be running under the IRO belt, between the belt & around the IRO pulley.
Snarls:
Snarls appear on the fabric surface, in the form of big loops
of yarn getting twisted, due to the high twist in the yarn (Unbalanced twist
yarn).
Causes:
- High,
twist in the, yarn.
- Hosiery
yarns are soft twisted. High, twist in the yarn, is the cause of snarling.
- Snarls cause, fabric defects & needle breakages
Remedies:
- . Ensure using Hosiery Yarns, of the recommended T.P.M. only.
- Hold a few inches of the yarn in both the hands, in the form of a ‘U’.
- The yarn has a balanced twist, if it doesn’t tend to rotate or turn, in the form of a snarl.
- Such yarn can be used for Hosiery applications.
Contaminations:
Causes:
- Presence
of dead fibers & other foreign materials, such as; dyed fibers, husk &
synthetic fibers etc.
- Dead
Fibers appear in the fabric, as a result of the, presence of excessive immature
Cotton fibers, in the Cotton fiber crop.
- Dead
fibers do not pick up color during Dyeing.
- Presence
of the foreign materials, in the, staple fiber mixing
- Kitty,
Husk, Broken Seeds, dyed fibers & fibers like Poly Propylene, Polyester,
Viscose etc
- Dyed
& other types of fibers flying from the adjacent Knitting machines cling,
to the yarn being used for knitting & get, embedded in the Grey Fabric.
Remedies:
- Use
rich fiber mixing for the yarns, to be used for Knitting, in order to have less
dead fibers, appearing in the fabric.
- Rigid control measures in the Blow Room, to prevent the mixing of foreign matters in the Cotton mixing.
- Segregate the Spinning & Knitting Machines, with Plastic Curtains or Mosquito Nets, to prevent the fibers flying from the neighboring machines, from getting embedded in the yarn / fabric.
Spirality:
Spirality
appears in the form of a twisted garment, after washing. The seams on both the
sides of the garment displace, from their position & appear on the front
& back of the garment.Fig 2 : Spirality
Causes:
- Spirality
is caused, by the Twisting Torque as a result, of the high yarn T.P.M.
- Hosiery
yarns are soft twisted, whereas the Warp yarns are hard twisted
- Uneven
Fabric Take down tension, on the Knitting machine.
- Unequal
rate of Fabric feed on the Stenter, Calender& Compactor machines.
Remedies:
- Use
the Hosiery yarns of the recommended TPM level for Knitting
- Hosiery yarns are soft twisted, in comparison to the Warp yarns
- Fabric pull or the Take Down tension, on both sides of the grey fabric tube, on the knitting machine, should be equal.
- Ensure uniform rate of feed of the dyed fabric, on both the edges, while feeding the fabric to the Calendar, Compactor or Stenter machines.
Needle Lines:
Causes:
- Bent
Latches, Needle Hooks & Needle stems
- Tight
Needles in the grooves
- Wrong
Needle selection (Wrong sequence of needles, put in the Cylinder or Dial)
Remedies:
- Inspect
the grey fabric on the knitting machine for any Needle lines.
- Replace
all the defective needles having, bent latches, hooks or stems.
- Remove
the fibers accumulated in, the Needle tricks (grooves).
- Replace
any bent Needles, running tight in the tricks.
- Check the Needle filling sequence in the Cylinder / Dial grooves (tricks).
Sinker Lines:
Causes:
- Bent
or Worn out Sinkers
- Sinkers being tight in, the Sinker Ring grooves
Remedies:
- Replace,
all the worn out or bent sinkers, causing Sinker lines in the fabric.
- Sinker
lines are very fine & feeble vertical lines, appearing in the fabric.
- Remove the fibers, clogging the Sinker tricks (Grooves)
Oil Lines:
Causes:
- Fibers & fluff accumulated in the needle tricks, which remain soaked with oil.
- Excessive
oiling of the, needle beds.
Remedies:
- Fibers,
accumulated in the needle tricks, cause the oil to seep into the Fabric.
- Some
lubricating oils are not washable & cannot be removed during Scouring.
- Oil
lines appear in the fabric, in the lengthwise direction, even after dyeing.
- Remove
all the Needles & the Sinkers of the machine, periodically.
- Clean
the grooves of the Cylinder & Dial of the machine thoroughly, with petrol.
- Blow the grooves of the Cylinder, Dial & Sinker ring, with dry air after cleaning.
Surface Hairiness & Piling:
Causes:
- Abrasion
due to the contact with rough surfaces
- Excessive
surface hairiness caused, due to the abrasive tumbling action
- Fabric
friction in the Tumble Dryer
- Rough
Dyeing process & abrasive machine surfaces (Soft Flow Machine tubes, Tumble
Dryer drum etc.)
- Reprocessing
of the fabric is, also a major cause of piling.
Remedies:
- Avoid
using the Tumble Dryer.
- Control
shrinkage by maximum fabric relaxation & over feed in the processing
- Regularly
inspect the fabric contact points on all the machines, for any rough &
sharp surfaces.
- Rectify,
if found rough
- Avoid
repeated reprocessing of the fabrics.
- Use anti pilling chemical treatments for the fabrics, prone to pilling.
Bowing:
Bowing appears as, rows of courses or yarn dyed stripes,
forming a bow shape, along the fabric width
Causes:
- Uneven
distribution of tensions, across the fabric width while, dyeing or finishing
the fabric.
Remedies:
- Bowing
can be corrected, by reprocessing the fabric feeding it from the opposite end.
- A special machine (MAHLO) is also available for, correcting the bowing in the knitted fabrics
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