QUALITY STANDARDS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (SEAM )

QUALITY STANDARDS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (SEAM ) :

This section recognizes and identifies the standards for quality clothing construction that give a garment a professional, finished look. The following list is a guide to producing an objective evaluation of professionally made custom clothing and alterations. Specific standards in construction can be expected even though there are many techniques that can produce the same finished results (i.e. French seams vs. serged seams). These standards apply to almost all sewing construction techniques. Each technique should result in a detail, finish, or area that is attractive or inconspicuous, functional, and durable. Using these standards as a guideline, the completed garment should be a quality professional garment.

SEAMS - When garment shaping and fitting require that two or more pieces of fabric must be joined, then a seam is used to affect that join. Examples of seams are plain seams, French, flat felled, lapped and serged.

1. The type of seam is appropriate to the type of fabric, the position of the seam, the projected care of the garment, quality, and design.
2. Thread color matches or blends and is of an appropriate weight for the fabric.
3. Seams are stitched with the correct stitch length and balanced tension.
4. Seams are smooth, with no puckers or pulls, and should lie flat.
5. Seam allowances are trimmed evenly unless graded to reduce bulk.
6. The seam allowance is appropriate for the type of seam, seam finish, and garment design.
7. Intersecting seams are aligned.
8. Plaids and stripes match at the seams where possible.
9. Seam finishes are appropriate to the dictates of the seam type, fabric, projected garment care, use and quality.
10.Seams are well pressed, with no imprint on the outside (see PRESSING).

SEAM FINISHES - A seam finish is any technique that is used to make a seam neat, to prevent the seam allowance edges from raveling and/or fraying, to prevent seam allowances from rolling, to prevent stretching and rippling in some seam allowances, and to give the inside of the garment a more pleasing appearance. Examples of seam finishes are pinked, overcast, Hong Kong, turned and stitched, and serged.

1. The seam finish is appropriate to the garment fabric, the garment design, the intended use of the garment, its quality, and garment care.
2. The finish is applied securely so that it remains in place during normal wear and care.
3. The finish does not add bulk to the seam.
4. The selected finish prevents the fabric from raveling, rolling, or stretching and contributes to the overall neatness of the garment.
5. The finishes’ binding or thread color is appropriate to the fashion fabric, unless used for decorative purposes.